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Hi i am new here, i'm in my early 60's have not ridden a bike in 15 years ish,
some of my previous BM's R45, R80, R80RT and my last one was a K1100.
Recently been looking at the 650CS, There's one local that looks in good nick, 2003, 23k mot november £1500.

1 are they still a good bike in 2021
2 would this have ABS?
3 will the rotax engine cope with the new fuel coming out E10

Questions i need to ask when looking at bike??
when was the belt changed? and what else
Things to look for on the bike
And last but not least Your thoughts on this model
38196
 

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Moto Guzzi Stelvio 1200 8V 2011, BMW F650CS 2002
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Hi i am new here, i'm in my early 60's have not ridden a bike in 15 years ish,
some of my previous BM's R45, R80, R80RT and my last one was a K1100.
Recently been looking at the 650CS, There's one local that looks in good nick, 2003, 23k mot november £1500.

1 are they still a good bike in 2021
2 would this have ABS?
3 will the rotax engine cope with the new fuel coming out E10

Questions i need to ask when looking at bike??
when was the belt changed? and what else
Things to look for on the bike
And last but not least Your thoughts on this model View attachment 38196
Hi Huggy Bear,

I'm a bit surprised nobody has answered you yet, but it may not be too late. We're more or less in the same boat, so to speak, because I'm at the verge of buying one myself. Here's what I've learned so far:

The F650CS had ABS as an option. Maybe only the early models, I'm not sure. It's easy to tell when you look at the brake disc at the front. When you see a smaller circulair disc with a neat row of slots cut out near the edge, all around the circumference of that disc, the bike has ABS. Whether it is working or not, is something entirely different. Some owners don't like it and may have found a way to disable it. Personally, I think for on-road use it is great and should be kept in good working order.

I've read about some minor issues with surging in a certain rpm range. This appears to be a thing that, in most case, can be solved by using iridium spark plugs (one or two, depending on your model and build year). Not all bikes seem to have this issue, however.

Some bikes seem to have electrical issues, but I tend to think that is very much depending on the former owner and the quality of the maintenance. Also, parking your bike in a garage or dry shed is always better in this aspect than having it spend the nights outside in the weather.

When buying:
Don't let yourself be rushed. Take your time to really look at every nook and cranny.
Take a test ride! Don't ever buy a bike without a test ride.
Check the brakes (how old is the fluid? How are the brake pads?), use the gears, try out different roads and speeds, ride at different speeds for a while to see if the bike runs smooth and balanced. Does the steering go heavy at slow speeds? It may need new bearings.
Be aware that some damage may be visible, but not all damage is on the outside. A bent frame may not show, but you might feel it when riding. Try to ride with your hands only slightly holding the handlebar. If it wants to veer off or starts to shake the front, not all's well in the state of Denmark. Worn bearings or a crooked frame. Badly worn tyres can also be causing this, so check those too.

There's a ton more to look out for, but this should give you a good start. Maybe you can bring a friend that knows these bikes, or is knowledgeable in the art of checking secondhand motorcycles? Good luck, and let me know how it worked out!

Cheers,
Conan
 

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Quite bit of info in FAQs about CS models and GS's. CS sold in fewer numbers , few unique bits that set it apart from GS's
 
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