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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First take a can of beer out the fridge and drink same , keeping the empty can for later.
Second don't bother removing seat, dummy tank, indicator or unbolting oil tank. you need a small hand pump , [the kind of thing used on diesel engines to prime them after changing the fuel filters] and some tubing.
now stick one end into the tank the other into a waste can and pump the old oil out.
remove the sprocket cover cut open the beer can and shove it under the oil filter housing . the oil will drain away without making a mess over the bike or floor.
the sump bolt , its dry sump cant be much in there so just dont bother , but you can if you insist
refill , start engine ,recheck level ,easy ,done in minutes.
regards
swifty
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what is wrong with you people? I give a good tip for people with no mechanical aptitude to save a shed load of money on regular maintence
I thought that was what sites like this were for?
I am mistaken you dont deserve help
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To "Guest" - All responses here "can" be helpful, but nobody knows who is writing when all that appears is "Guest". It could be a different person every single time, unless you sign off with a name, so it would be very helpful if you could put your name (doesn't need to be real) in the appropriate "Username" box in the "Reply" section when it appears.

The folks will get to know if your information is relaible or duff. (If it's really duff or dangerous then it'll get deleted)

That way we know the response is from a specific person, rather than "Guest", some of whom in the past have given misleading information.

Thanks :-D
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Perhaps "Guest" would suggest that those who can't change their own tyres should run on bald tyres.? Or ride without lights if they don't know how to change a bulb?
Oil should be changed not just some emptied and then topped up again.

It's not "lazy" it's just bad maintenance.
 

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On the subject of changing oil, is there a need to clean the filter at the base of the oil tank on the CS model. Does it require the removal of the clutch arm to do it. The banjo pipe nut looks a bit of a pig to get at, so I would like to leave it alone.
 

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Thanks for that, it will save time not to clean out the oil tank filter, of course I will remove the sump plug and clean and inspect in that area.
Any rough running on these bikes seems to be due to loose connections sending duff information to the ECU control box, which inturn changes all manner of set ups to ignition and fuel injestion settings. The bike starts to work strange, ie. fast tickover, no engine braking, stalling and surging.
I found this out when the coil/spark plug cap came loose. Same applies to battery connections.
But what a great bike when all is tight,
Thanks
Dave
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Let's always remember: our bike is a Big single;

it vibrates more than multis, resulting in all things particular to vibration;
it prefers high revs, as opposed to "putting" or "chugging" around;

The problems I read/hear are mostly, if not all, due to the two things above.

John.
 
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