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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking at getting a spare as I cant afford to be without the bike for very long and also to take when I go touring.

Has anyone tried this: http://amzn.eu/j91U17Q

Looks good value...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im not in a rush for it as its as a spare. If you click on the company name on the Amazon page it shows it as Chinese. Ive heard a couple of people say that the Chinese ones arent great, but lets face it, the BMW ones are probably made in China these days!
Ive ordered one and might swap it to see what its like and keep the original as a spare. For £24 its worth a punt...
 

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I've had a chinese rectifier in the past and it slowly failed in about 6 weeks.

Best thing is to buy a used 650gs rectifier and follow the faq on how to adapt it. I fitted it 5 months ago and the voltage has been rock solid since.
 

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Hi
The best cure for most of the rectifier problems is to move it (if you have a Funduro anyway). As BMW in their wisdom put it under the seat on a plastic mudguard. It was designed to be able to dissipate heat which does not happen under a seat mounted on plastic mudguard.

There's plenty of advice about this

Dave
 

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Mine was already relocated when I bought it... :)


Hi
The best cure for most of the rectifier problems is to move it (if you have a Funduro anyway). As BMW in their wisdom put it under the seat on a plastic mudguard. It was designed to be able to dissipate heat which does not happen under a seat mounted on plastic mudguard.

There's plenty of advice about this

Dave
 

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Another source of failure is the connectors on the wires to the cables, battery connection, and earths.
And batteries which are beyond their useful life.
Jump starting insn't recommended either - the , er, current rules are you disconnect the battery and charge it enough that it will start the bike without the jump leads connected. And if it wont take a charge , to dump it.
My Funduro came with a almost new $20- R/R in the stock position, a decrepit battery and dry connectors on the cables.
I replaced all the connectors with Posiloks , greased and sealed with self adhesive shrink wrap and fitted a new AGM Motobatt battery with star washers on the connections.
65,000 km/ 4 years later everything still works perfectly.
Probably because I carry a spare $20- R/R in the tail---------------.
FWIW there are cheapos on Ebay which are marked exactly the same as the OEM unit with the Shindengen? logo and part number - that Amazon one doesnt seem to be.
Any R/R with the same number and color of wires will work, and as the arn't a big seller second hand it might be possible to obtain a larger heavy duty oem quality unit from a wrecker even cheaper than Amazon.
 

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I'm checking mine out as well. I noticed that the insulation around the 3-Pin connector block has hardened and turned brown on both sides and has started to flake off. The VR has been replaced at some stage in the past. I've ordered a new connector block and pins with the correct crimping tool. Do these wires routinely overheat? Some of the heat might be down to poor connections hence the new connector block. Voltage output is 14.5 volt using a gel battery so I am assuming the VR is OK. Also looking at this:

https://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/VRegulator.html

There is a USA-based seller on E-Bay. Wary of E-bay as I'm not sure if they are kosher or cheap copies but this guy seems genuine:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSA...942316&hash=item542a287a08:g:VtwAAOSwKtVWuj3T

Just possible hassle of customs \ import taxes unless I find a genuine UK outlet. Anyone know if there is one?
 

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H Steve,
what model F650 do you have ?
if it's pre 2000 (funduro/strata ) VR 's were suspect, over heated, failed , could this be yours, insulation hardening etc? Check battery voltage , static and running should max out about 14.4V! If more its goosed.
If post 2000- single/twin spark then unusual, as VR and generator up rated , 280 watt to 400 watts

Look at Wayne’s Crossroadz site - https://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/VRegulator.html
it's very informative :deal:
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

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H Steve,
what model F650 do you have ?
if it's pre 2000 (funduro/strata ) VR 's were suspect, over heated, failed , could this be yours, insulation hardening etc? Check battery voltage , static and running should max out about 14.4V! If more its goosed.
If post 2000- single/twin spark then unusual, as VR and generator up rated , 280 watt to 400 watts

Look at Wayne’s Crossroadz site - https://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/VRegulator.html
it's very informative :deal:
Been there and had a look. That is how I found out about the Shindengen alternatives.

It is a 1998 Funduro. Battery voltage is 14.5 at the terminals, so don't think 0.1 of a volt is going to be an issue. The Chain Gang website give this as an OK figure.

Obviously I don't know if the insulation was hardened before the VR was changed by a previous owner but the connector was warm to the touch when I was running the bike and checking a starting issue and thus rang alarm bells. Poking about saw the insulation break off close to the connector block. I'll look to re-site the VR externally when I fix the wiring.
 

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Decided to move the VR to a cooler spot so am in the process of cropping wires and crimping on new terminals and using the VR from my old bike which was good.

The pic shows my connector block from the alternator side of the harness of the bike I am working on. You can hopefully see the heat has actually affected the colour of the copper as well discolouring and hardening the insulation.

The after-market VR that was fitted (not by me) seems to have smaller wires. Not by much but it is noticeable to a practised eye.

Wires.jpg

Did some research and dug out some old AC theory books gathering dust. The calcs show the VR should be receiving about 15 Amp from the 3-phase AC output. In this case, the wires fitted to the after-market VR seem borderline. Then, add in oxidised connector pins. The cable should be a minimum of 1.5 mm squared but that is ideal case up to 30 degrees C and given the closed in area under the seat....

The harness wires are not much better. Found those had hardened a bit as well and looking to cut them back further into the harness.
 

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Whilst dealing with a starting problem and the above overheated wiring, I decided to re-site the VR. The attached shows my take on the job. Couldn't see the point of hacking the snorkel and burying it another dark corner. IMG_20180519_132716.jpg IMG_20180519_132609.jpg IMG_20180519_132700.jpg

The only cut was in the plastic under-tray that hides the expansion tank. I made two cuts, folded up the plastic tab that resulted and used that to tie-wrap the wires in place. Extended the wiring loom wires with kit bought from a local car parts outlet.

I don't know yet if I have solved the original starting problem, but it runs, the VR is giving the right numbers and one more job off the "A round tuit" job list.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That looks like a good place, but maybe prone to water/stone damage? Let us know how you get on?

Cheers
 

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Whilst dealing with a starting problem and the above overheated wiring, I decided to re-site the VR. The attached shows my take on the job. Couldn't see the point of hacking the snorkel and burying it another dark corner. View attachment 35426 View attachment 35434 View attachment 35442

The only cut was in the plastic under-tray that hides the expansion tank. I made two cuts, folded up the plastic tab that resulted and used that to tie-wrap the wires in place. Extended the wiring loom wires with kit bought from a local car parts outlet.

I don't know yet if I have solved the original starting problem, but it runs, the VR is giving the right numbers and one more job off the "A round tuit" job list.
Yes as mike said this looks like a good place and would love to hear how it is working out for you too.
 

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I believe the later injected 650 singles have the VR mounted at the front of the engine so it is as vulnerable there as where I've got it as regards water. The chances of a stone flying and hitting are virtually zero (until it happens ;) ).

If the "potting" is done right, water ingress should not be a problem but as you see the wire entry point is out of the direct firing line of spray from the tyre. A good glooping of silicon grease would give some extra protection. I suspect chain lube gloop might be a bigger problem.

When stationary, a temperature probe placed on the fins showed 60 degrees C, so any water isn't going to last long.

I have enough slack in the extended loom to loop the wires down a bit to stop water running down the wires to the VR although may be only when stood still in a downpour.

As the idea is to expose as much as possible to the air-stream, I didn't see much point in "boxing" it in.

We will see..... Next job, running a bit rough just off the idle and up to around 2000 rpm..

What it does mean is that if it does go (this is from a '95 model I have for spares) I can easily fit a new one, probably one of the new MOSFET types on E-bay that I highlighted earlier.
 
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