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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I just got a 2003 single spark engine to replace my beloved 2001. It seems in good nick all round except for the waterpump housing. This has oxidized and the paint has flaked off.( Looking at other bikes too, this seem to be the common place of engine alloy oxidation.)

I want to paint the new engine black like the new rotax's on t G650's but have no clue how to go about it.

The process I beleive runs along the lines of strip off old paint, sand, lay primer, paint, but where do I get the materials for this? would it be cheaper to get a pro to do it?

input appreciated
 

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i presume you are going to take the engine out to do this , :think:

i think i would go to a automotive paint suppliers and ask their advice , as for stripping the old paint maybe get it bead blasted obviously making sure all orifices are well sealed ;) :uhoh:

i dont suppose it will be cheap but if done properly should look good :dance:
 

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For painting Alli' you would be best using an ETCH primer first, this is acid based and actualy eats into the surface of the metal to get a realy good key.
As Micheal says Beed blasting first would be best but that would meen stripping everything off it and if you know its running well now that might be a bit ott.
The other alternative would be a wire cup brush fitted to an angle grinder, these are viscious things though so be very careful they can remove metal metal aswell.
Ive done the alli foot hangers on my 1100 with this method and they came up well and havnt started to peel yet.
Any car factors place should stock Etch primer as do Halfords(cost more from here though).
Dazco
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have decided that I am not going to paint the whole case, only the waterpump cover. Will wire brush the paint off, prime and paint in the original silver color.

thanks all for the input.
 

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I have just the answer for you. :dance:

I copied an artical out of my magazine to keep in the workshop it a complete step by step on how to do what your asking.
:whistle:
I can send copies attatchced to an e-mail if it will help you out. :riding:
 

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Ah Im afraid however useful that may be: :doh: It is an article taken from a magazine I subscribe to. As such copy write etc should be adheard to where possible. :naughty:

I know the guys and girls that write the mag a fantastic publication. :not worthy: Im happy to share the info in the way Ive done for you, but Im not about to corrupt the endevours and efforts of people who create a very interesting and compelling Mag. :riding:

Hope you understand :think:
 

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The thing to remember; is that now your paint surface has broken down, your now dealing with paint that is being attacked from beneath its surface i.e. the metal itself, rather than paint depravation.

You would have to ensure you feather well into the good paint to make sure you cover the areas effected underneath the paint.

Personally if it was me I would go the whole hog; preferably leave the job until you know you have the time to commit to it properly. Remember its hard, dirty and painstaking work.

The alternatives are you spend hours of; lets face it cr&py work only to find:

1) The left on paint work starts to deteriate and you start again.
2) The work you did looks great and what you decided to leave now looks twice as bad, it gets shown up basicly.

Hay thats just me, anyone elde care to throw their thoughts in the pot :think:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
stripped the paint the corroded bits where it had flaked off. Primed with plasti-kote special metal primer and then sprayed with black hammerite.
This was on the clutch and alternator cover. on the engine proper, the head is very well covered in paint and not corroded, so i thought I would roughen it up with some wet&dry and only strip the crank/gearbox housing because it is corroded, then prime and paint.
Thank god for Dremel and Nitromors!!! oh and sharp scalples
 

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Sounds good to me :dance: Let me know how it fairs latter on would be very interested.

Any chance of a pic did you do a before and after, or is that just for sad old gis like me :roll: :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll try and get some from the actual engine casing while stripping, priming etc. Now to find a camera....
Should I put the painted bits in the oven for a while? its been 2 days and they are still "sticky" to the touch. They will need another layer though and then something like lacquer to toughen them up. Dont wont paint to be scratched silly while off-roading.
 

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komatias said:
Should I put the painted bits in the oven for a while?
Damn weather to much moisture in the air :doh: Could cure it for a while would have to watch temps and time to ensure you dont get any lifting underneath but should be fine, tricky :think: ill leave that one with you :big grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I have opened a right can of worms on this one....

observations so far:

Stripping the paint off of the engine is a right barsteward of a job unless it is already partially off

Hammerite is not strong enough for what I want. Cant have it chipping off by just looking at it.

So... I have invested in a 6l compressor, a grit blasting gun and a spray gun. Now the question is... WTF do I do next? There are so many oxidation inhibitors, etching primers, paints etc that I am at a loss. I want the engine to withstand the same amount of abuse that my previous one took without flaking or chipping. Have seen Simoniz, Por15 and various other products but have no idea which way to go.... Anyone know what the original paint is?

Anybody have a direction on this?

Ta
 

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If you are going to bead blast then why not get the parts powdercoated ?

Jon
 

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komatias said:
Anyone know what the original paint is?

Anybody have a direction on this?

Ta
The paint code is under your bike seat and will be 3 numbers BMW paint matching those numbers will be the origonal paint. Ive seen a link for this someware will try and find it for you.

i did say the prep work was a bl**dy nightmare hard and dirty work. Stick at it and it will be worth it in the end.

Ok heres the link for the paint knew it was around someware:-

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayprod.php?function=subs&subs=166&title=TOUCH+UP+PAINTS+&+PINSTRIPING.
 

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Did my F650 plastic bodywork in black crinkle-finish hammerite, took about three days iindoors to harden and about a week to go off properly. Really needs a hard lacquer c oat too, but easy to touch up after drops and knocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That number is for the paint scheme actually. I was refering to the kind of paint they use on the engine as if it is on properly it is as tough as nails. If I can find it in black I will have a robert for an uncle....
 

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like i said on the second or third post on this thread ,go see an automotive paint supplier :whistle: , or if your desperate halfrauds or similar ,i have bought small tins of engine paint in the past (but that was green for a 1971 mini engine :roll: )

the proper paint suppliers can mix any colour you want ,im assuming the black on the G Series engines is kinda semi matt (eggshell) :think:

cheers mike
 

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komatias said:
That number is for the paint scheme actually..
Im sorry :roll: I was under the mistaken impresion that the paint scheme included the engine colour. :doh:
 
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