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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike just failed its MOT on the head stock bearings! Cant really aford for someone to do them so have decided to have a go myself.

So has anyone got any advice? I have the parts just need to get on with it. I do not have a manual so only going on what people telling me what to do! How tight do i do them?? that sort of thing

cheers :-D :-D :-D
 

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Workshop Manual

There's a manual for your bike on this site. Go to 'The Bikes' above and select GS & Daker section. Scroll down to links at the bottom and you will see a link to a downloadable PDF file of the BMW manual. Hope its of use & good luck. :howdy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not got a pinch rench adapter!! Do I need one? or is there another way of doing it. If I do need one can I only get this from bmw?
 

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Having done this job once I can tell you that although it is a straightforward job that takes about one full day, I would not attempt it if you are not a good amateur mechanic with a fair bit of experience.

There is scope for getting something wrong, which could be risky if your mistake shows up at 70 mph overtaking a juggernaut. If you are not confident, why not get it done properly by an experienced mechanic. If you think you cann`t afford it try readjusting your spending priorities. Most of us spend money on stuff we could do without.

Fit good quality bearings (not Bulgarian) and insist the mechanic pack the whole space between the two bearings with high melting point grease and hopefully it will be a long time before it needs done again.

John.
 
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Hi Simply

I'd go with Johnuytman on this one. Either you know how and what to do... or you don't. The consequences of getting it wrong are horrendous. You can do it yourself, it's only mechanical. You need a feel for those taper bearings (as John says, only use good quality, known brand, replacements!)

Too tight and they'll be knackered withing a few miles... too slack and you're likely to have a wobble and weave to beat all. There is a torque method of setting them up (special tool) but this usually results in them maybe being too tight. They need to be preloaded, backed off, and then the right amount of tightening/loading before locking up. Even when you lock them up it often alters the adjustment.

Just done mine, you'll need the two thin dust shields as well (one top, one bottom) because they get destroyed in the dissasembly!

Don't worry about packing the whole area between the bearings with grease, it'll just sit there and do nothing. Rather get some good quality waterproof grease and when assembling just ensure that you get the grease all round the rollers... well rubbed in so to speak! There's only room for a very thin film of grease on the rollers when assembled and working, any more will just sit there and do nothing.

Best of luck either way... but I wouldn't be just trusting in luck...

www.adventure.gs
 
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Why do people always want the cheapest... I'd rather have the best!

City Seals and Bearings.. NSK part number HR320/28xJ at £26.95 the pair.

Last pair did 19,300 miles over unmade roads and deserts, so that'll do nicely!

www.adventure.gs
 

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You always have to start somewere when doing your own jobs on a bike. I would just ensure you have all the parts required in advance. Also print off all the information from the chain gang site. I did not need any specialist tools. You mention a pinch wrench. i just used a punch and hammer to do the same job.

I agree with Micky you will probably also need new dust shields as they are often damaged during the removal of the old bearings.

Just ensure you remember were the parts go on dismantling and make a few notes if it helps. When putting in the new bearings I found it helped to heat up the top of the fork legs and also placed the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours.

When it comes to the final torque you don't want the bearings loose but just a little amount of resistance when turning the steering from side to side. If you have any problems then just post an the site and someone is always willing to help.

Take your time and give it a go.

SHOTROCK
 

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I mend cars for a living but still chose to take my bike to the stealers for the SHB's , its piece of mind to me that someone experienced in these things (hopfully) repaired my bike,its a safety issue to me.
 
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Micky said:
Why do people always want the cheapest... I'd rather have the best!

City Seals and Bearings.. NSK part number HR320/28xJ at £26.95 the pair.

Last pair did 19,300 miles over unmade roads and deserts, so that'll do nicely!

www.adventure.gs
I like to find the right part for the right price. Usually for the BMW, its the best quality part at the cheapest combination of price, labor, convenience, and support. Its a buyers market and everything is negotiable! Just ask BMW. :big grin:
 
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Griswald said:
I like to find the right part for the right price. Usually for the BMW, its the best quality part at the cheapest combination of price, labor, convenience, and support. Its a buyers market and everything is negotiable! Just ask BMW. :big grin:
Totally agree Griswald, and I always reckon on using genuine BMW parts... except for headstock bearings... they're chocolate :uhoh:

www.adventure.gs
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
johnuytman said:
why not get it done properly by an experienced mechanic. If you think you cann`t afford it try readjusting your spending priorities. Most of us spend money on stuff we could do without..
Some of us cant afford to live net alone spend money on things we cant afford!

Thanks for all your replys guys and girls :-D I managed to do it this morning with some help from my hubby. Was allot easier than I first thought and would recomend to anyone that can pick up a spanner to do there own it was not rocket science. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

PS have a new problem tho that my hubby picked up this morning, started a new post if anyone can help
 
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