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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used 2016 g650gs with 1,700 miles from my local BMW dealer. Brought it home on a trailer as I did not want to ride it on the expressway in heavy traffic. I got it home and went for a ride and the bike dies completely. I'm on the side of the road next to a 6" curb with traffic roaring by at 60mph. I cant get the bike over the 6 inch curb so I am basically effed. After several minutes of fumbling with switches and tugging on wires suddenly the lights come on and it fires up. I turn around and head for home and thankfully It makes it all the way home.
So here is what I have done.
Found the Lithium battery would not hold a charge replaced it with a lead acid type.
Took it around the block and had same issue, no electrical power.
Tested new battery and its ok, and has power.
The leads coming from the battery are tight and have power.
Got mad, put the cover on it and let it sit for a few days.
Now I am back to trying to get it fixed.
Did some research on the web and found a couple posts about wiring around the front fork, and wiring around the shock adjustment knob.
Any insight from this forum would be much appreciated.

Nomad Dave
 

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With so few miles on, suprised it might be due to flexing wires around the headstock \ front fork, but you never know until proven. With it going totally dead, I'd work around the ignition switch and loom connector blocks as a starting point as I've had problems there (with a lot older and much higher mileage) '99 Funduro.

Using a tester, work from the battery up the loom until you find the "dead".

Water sat in connector blocks, plus volts, also spells trouble, so look for "green" connector pins in the connector blocks that indicate possible rotting of the pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the help stevedixey!
Pulled it apart today and checked all the connector blocks. Everything looks nice and clean. Harness looks good, but of course it would always fail in the spot that you cannot see. I hooked the battery back up and now I have no power at all when I turn on the ignition. This is a good thing, suddenly my problem is not intermittent. I pealed back the heavy cover over the ignition switch wires, got a sewing needle and my multi tester. (sewing needle to probe into the wires with minimal disturbance of the insulation) Test showed power to red feed wire but nothing on the green output wire. Turning the key switch on and off several times produced nothing on the output side of the switch. Conclusion, bad ignition switch
I guess I will need to drill out those anti-theft screws, and probably need to remove the bars and head stock for access to remove the switch.
I will probably work on it again tomorrow as some storms are passing through now. We need the rain.
Nomad Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Follow up...
I was able to remove the electrical part of the switch without removing the anti-theft screws which protect the steering lock. A couple small screws hold the switch to the bottom of the keyed steering lock. Further testing of the switch once removed proved that this is my problem. Ordered up a new switch and hopefully back on the road early next week. I am looking forward to riding again as this problem has been going on for months.

Thanks for the help Steve, and thanks to others who were sending positive energy my way.

Nomad Dave
 

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Suggest you test switch direct, rather than through wiring, corrosion in terminals not unknown, plus wiring breaks - could mean switch is ok.
Update Dave- just seen your latest posting, good logical testing,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I disassembled the switch and found the green stuff that was causing my issue.
Anyone have thoughts on cleaning it up and re-assembling with a dab of lithium grease?
Ignition Switch.JPG
 

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I disassembled the switch and found the green stuff that was causing my issue.
Anyone have thoughts on cleaning it up and re-assembling with a dab of lithium grease?
View attachment 38164
I had my switch go and the damage was also inside so thought not worth the risk. If it fails on you on the outside lane of a dual-carriageway....

Oil-based greases are non conductive. Like with battery terminals, you could clean up the pins, assemble, then smear Vaseline or silicon-based greases around the water entry points. However, if water gets in and can't get out, you are back to square one.

Not saying this is the case, but a reminder for people to keep jet washers away from bikes. Electrical bits are too exposed on bikes, compared with cars, to withstand jet wash attack. Rain can get in and cause enough chaos as it is :rolleyes:.

Hopefully you will be on your way soon :)
 

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I had exactly the same issue with my 2007 F650GS, so replaced it last weekend, didn't feel like it cutting out on a dark road with no lights
38177
 
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