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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello!
The situation is following:
BMW F650 GS year 2000. 77k km.
Yesterday when I aggressively picking up speed, the engine suddenly stalled. I stopped, started up, at idle everything is fine, but as soon as I slightly open the throttle, it starts to shut up, stall. More than 1600-1700 rpm is not gaining, barely got home on the first and clutch.
I did calibration (or rather shamanism) with the ignition on, twisting the throttle, turning it off. Switched all connectors. I checked the throttle sensor for resistance, there seem to be no dips in resistance, it slowly increases/decreases when I turn the throttle. Also checked all three wires from TPS connector to main unit - all is good.
I changed the spark. The old one had fresh soot, but this is most likely due to a relatively long trip on idle rpm.
For maintenance, everything was carried out at the beginning of the season, air filters, oil, oil.

What else to look?
 

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Look at the inlet manifold, make sure that there are no air leaks there.
Fuel filters?
Spark plug caps, check for grime , dirt , leakage ( dark shed, start bike look for sparks around caps)
Check spark plug resistors ( they are usually fitted inside the spark plug caps)
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Look at the inlet manifold, make sure that there are no air leaks there.
Fuel filters?
Spark plug caps, check for grime , dirt , leakage ( dark shed, start bike look for sparks around caps)
Check spark plug resistors ( they are usually fitted inside the spark plug caps)
Pete
no air leaks checked all around.
Fuel filter changed today - no luck. Checked the first one (at the bottom of the pump - crystal clear too)
Spark plug cap checked and changed spark to another one too. Tried to do the dark thing - no sparks seen around

Recorded a video, maybe this will help to identify issue: acceleration issue F650 GS
 

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Sounds like you need to borrow a GS911 and plug it into the bike to see what codes it throws up.
Have a look at the Idle air control valve, too make sure it is clean .
Shamanism does not work.
Try cleaning the injector too.
Have a look at the Crossroadz site there is a heap of great information there.
http://www.crossroadz.com.au/

Go to the F650GS section and have fun reading. Good luck
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like you need to borrow a GS911 and plug it into the bike to see what codes it throws up.
Have a look at the Idle air control valve, too make sure it is clean .
Shamanism does not work.
Try cleaning the injector too.
Have a look at the Crossroadz site there is a heap of great information there.
http://www.crossroadz.com.au/

Go to the F650GS section and have fun reading. Good luck
Pete
Cannot get GS911 for now nor go to the service. I'm in the Ukraine, and you may know the situation here.
Cleaned idle actuator and checked it - looks working, valve moving when I turn off ignition.
Tried to clean throttle body and injector with cleaner too.
And yes, using crossroads website as main info for the issues
 

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HI Dennie, sorry to hear of where you are. Such a bad situation.
One thing that is worth doing is putting a sipon tube down into the fuel tank and siphon from the bottom.
There could be water sitting on the bottom of the tank and bikes don't run on water that well.
Given where you are and the situation, fuel contamination may be an issue.
I hope the invasion ends very soon. Good luck and stay well
Pete
 

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Dennie just wondering if you have checked the compression?
You may have a valve problem such as a leaky valve.
Or your cam chain may have jumped a tooth.
Worth checking the engine compression if you have a compression guage.
The fuel pumps in these bikes are very common in cars. A friend of mine got one from an auto parts shop for $40, that was exactly the same as the BMW one and BMW wanted $700.
I realise that parts may be hard to get in the Ukraine.
Hopefully the invaders will leave and let your country live in peace again.
Pete
 

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Hi Dennie, I just read on the crossroadz site that the faults you are having can be caused by a broken wire on the throttle position sensor.
You said that you have checked the wires to the TPS but it may be worth checking them again and looking closely at any wiring plugs associated with the TPS.
Good luck and stay safe
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
About wires to TPS - yes I did check them twice, and they are all good. I did it directly from the main unit to the TPS plug, there are no additional connectors on the way.

I found a video where explains about diagnostic with usual OBD2 scanner, wiring it to BMW diagnostic plug - will try this today, these scanners much more common here than GS911. Hope to get some info, because changing parts can be quite expensive. Especially fuel pump or TPS sensor (omg it's 120 $ per usual potentiometer).

I'm not sure about valves or chain because it's running very smooth on idle. Will check it after all

About fuel - yes I did that
 

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Hi Dennie, I had a look at some photos of throttle position sensors. It looks like the sensors on the GS are common to many BMW bikes and cars. Maybe there is a wrecking yard near where you are that you could get a second hand one from to try.
Other than that, measure the resistance of the one you have and try substituting a normal rotary potentiometer in its place. You could get one from an electronic shop, then manually turn it and see if it allows the revs to increase without the engine dying.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Dennie, I had a look at some photos of throttle position sensors. It looks like the sensors on the GS are common to many BMW bikes and cars. Maybe there is a wrecking yard near where you are that you could get a second hand one from to try.
Other than that, measure the resistance of the one you have and try substituting a normal rotary potentiometer in its place. You could get one from an electronic shop, then manually turn it and see if it allows the revs to increase without the engine dying.
Pete
I was thinking about it and checked resistance - it's changing without spikes like it must be as far as people in a couple in general TPS diagnostic videos say. The main issue is I don't know the reference, "right" values for it.
Regarding similar TPS - not so easy situation here, it's not that common. It was on some E35 and some other cars(there's an info on crossroadz about it), tried to google it by part number - they pretty rare here.
 

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Hi Denny , I was hoping someone with more knowledge of these bikes would chime in. Unfortunately I have never owned an injected bike.
Have you checked the Voltage regulator to see what voltage the alternator is putting into the battery.
Dead voltage regulators can create havoc with electronics and the running of bikes.
Other than that pull any electrical connectors apart and make sure there is no corrosion on any pins.
Let me know what voltage readings you get from the regulator and what AC voltages the alternator is putting into the regulator.
Pete
 

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Hi Dennie,
I have not a solution, but wish to chime in if you don't mind? You see I have a 2007 BMW G650 xCountry and I think we may have the same problem. I also made a video yesterday and when I went in search of a forum to post it to, I found this.
So if you don't mind (I'll assume you don't for now) I'll link my video here...
Read the comments of this video for information about my bike's problems and history.
Perhaps this help others with 2 videos to look at. After reading the last post last night I also tested my TPS this morning (I'm in Australia). I get right down to about 0.2 volt at idle and goes to about 4.5 volts at max. The resistance was about 4.5K ohm to about 200 ohm (I think, I didn't write it down but can check it again if need be). It seemed smooth enough throughout the range.

I'm starting to think it might be timing related but I'm not really qualified to say why.
 

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Hi Baz, check the voltage from the regulator first.
I did see a big puff of smoke when you tried to rev it.
so check the valve clearances and also the compression too.
thanks for chiming in
Pete
 

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Baz when you check the compression, make sure the leave the spark plugs in the coils and ground the end with the electrode. That way no damage can happen to the coil on plug setups.
Good luck getting the bike going, the 650 X bikes look great.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Got some info with OBD2 scanner. Two errors, 0335 and 0230. Checked at the bmwfault.codes and looks like main issue is crankshaft sensor. Fuel pump power consumption can be result of not original pump installed, I think.
Updated info:
Crankshaft error appears only after I try to open the throttle and bike starts misfiring, etc. If I just start it and it's on idle - all is ok. That's strange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Hi Dennie,
I have not a solution, but wish to chime in if you don't mind? You see I have a 2007 BMW G650 xCountry and I think we may have the same problem. I also made a video yesterday and when I went in search of a forum to post it to, I found this.
So if you don't mind (I'll assume you don't for now) I'll link my video here...
Read the comments of this video for information about my bike's problems and history.
Perhaps this help others with 2 videos to look at. After reading the last post last night I also tested my TPS this morning (I'm in Australia). I get right down to about 0.2 volt at idle and goes to about 4.5 volts at max. The resistance was about 4.5K ohm to about 200 ohm (I think, I didn't write it down but can check it again if need be). It seemed smooth enough throughout the range.

I'm starting to think it might be timing related but I'm not really qualified to say why.
Hi Baz ! Yeah, it looks pretty similar, the only difference is looks like that you have it at much higher rpm
 

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Hi Dennie well done on getting the codes, I hope you can get the parts you need easily.
Does seem odd that the code only appears when you rev it. It may be some anomaly with using the OBD reader adapted to the bikes electrics.
Hope you get it sorted
Pete
 

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Dennie, this is an interesting statement from the Crossroadz site. It talks about the cases where the BMS is replaced by people thinking it is faulty only to find that a sensor is faulty.
Ensure all engine sensors are tested and confirmed operational before concluding a BMS is faulty. There have been occasions where dealers have replaced a BMS only to find the fault was a sensor, particularly the crankshaft sensor.
Good luck
Pete
 
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